Step 54 Augusta – Margaret River 116km's

Tuesday 8^th March

Started the day with a trip out to Cape Leeuwin, the most South Westerly point in WA and home of the tallest mainland lighthouse. It is also where the Indian and Pacific Oceans meet (It must have been hazy, because we couldn't see the join line though).

Pacific ocean to the front, Indian in the back (of this picture)

Then it was off on the Caves Road as recommended by the Caravan and Motorhome Magazine and DVD and very pleasant it was too.

Stopped at Jewel Cave, but didn't go in for the tour.

Who needs a four wheel drive

Still driving through forest country but Epping Forest it is not, you don't get trees like this 20km's from London!

Next stop Caves Works where we checked out the displays and Steve rapelled into the caves

while Di checked out the intricate formations, hundreds of metres below ground

Do these shorts actually make my bum look smaller

What? You don't believe us. Good choice, but the photo's of the posters on the wall came out really well didn't they? Come on, 300 steps down into the dark, cramped, enclosed spaces underground. Does that sound like Steve & Di?

Now while Margaret River is famous for it's wineries and wine, in particular Chardonnay & Cabernet Sauvignon, it was previously a sleepy surfer's hangout. Judging by the crowd at Surfers Point it still is. There were some seriously gnarly dudes just chillin on the cliffs watching their bro's carving up the tubes. Man it was awesome, left hand and right hand breaks on either side of the point. Editors note: I have very little idea what those last two sentences mean but it was very pleasant sitting in MM eating lunch whilst watching the surf and the board riders.

Some of the surfers looked like they might have been to the Pemberton Berry Pancake house, more than once, including one guy who looked like he had had an extra panel sewed into the stomach region of his wetsuit. I'd swim next to him if the sharks arrived, I believe Great Whites like to supersize their seal meal deal whenever possible.

In what is shaping up to be a very pleasant day indeed our next stop was the Cape Mentelle Winery. Back in the day, when I was gainfully employed, and when coffee breaks and long lunches were part of my job description, I could take a glass (or three) of Cape Mentelle Cab Sav in my stride. Luckily, like riding a bike you don't forget these things easily and Di & I managed to work our way through the tastings. However in a sign that we are becoming acclimatised to Chateau Cardboard and Deux Dollar Cinquante Rouge (or as they call it in the Dan Murphy's, $2.50 Cab Merlot) we actually preferred the $16 “Budget” Cab Sav Merlot to the $84 Cab Sav, vineyard speciality. I'm sure I will be able to re-train myself at some point.

On Vicki & Herb's recommendation our next stop was the Voyager Winery. Now this is what my country residence shall look like when I hit the jackpot. This place is truly amazing

While I initially thought it looked like a French Chateau, apparently it is based on a South African Estate. The gardens that surround the buildings are maintained by six full time gardeners.

Editors note: In talking to locals later, their feeling was that one of the reasons the Margaret River took off as a premier wine region so quickly, was that the owners concentrated not just on the vines and the wines but also the presentation of the wineries. So all of the wineries seem to be beautifully presented. Having said that, some of the wineries had the advantage of being set up by people with a lot of cash to splash. Voyager for instance was founded by a guy who was Lang Hancock's business partner. Rather than marrying the housekeeper this guy invested his time and money into the vineyard and estate.

EDITORS NOTE: Vicki and Herb doing all this travelling has been nothing less than outstanding for us. Not only have we had the benefit of a Torquay “holiday house” for the last few years, but now we don't even need to do travel research on this trip. We just check V & H's notes and their recommendations in our RACV Caravan book and re-read the “Travels with the Taj” blog. Thanks V & H xxx

In a sign of how well the day is going, we tried to check into the Top Tourist Van park in Margaret River but it was full. However the Family Parks park we did get into turned out to be better.

Step 53 Denmark to Pemberton, no, I mean Augusta. 396Km's

Monday 7th March

Stopped off in town to top up with diesel and pick up a few things in the supermarket. Surprisingly the petrol station had full driveway service. So if I want to take my career full circle maybe I could move here and get a job pumping petrol again! Oh wait a minute, I just remembered, even as a teenager the pay didn't cover my lifestyle requirements so maybe it's back to IT after all.

Started the trip, travelling via Northcliffe and Point D'entre Casteaux.

Northcliffe was settled in the 1800's and the “lucky winners” of the land allocation were given an area of forest to settle in and encouraged to clear the land – by hand. Consequently there is not a lot of open paddocks or grazing in the area. If only Peter King had been able to setup a Husqvarna chainsaw dealership in the area back then, life would have been a lot  easier for the settlers (and probably Pete). On the other hand we wouldn't have the expression “Steve is in more trouble than the early settlers”.

Further along the way we drove through the “settlement” (not town, village or shire – settlement) of Windy Harbour. Interesting little spot with real beach shacks with no land between them, all clustered around a boat ramp and beach.

Unfortunately there wasn't a real good spot to stop for lunch with MM so we drove onwards to the Point D'entreCasteaux itself. Another kodak moment.

So, the twofold reason for heading to Pemberton was to ride on the tourist tram through the forest and to have a berry pancake at the Lavender and Berry farm (both of which we discovered in the tourist brochures for the area). After visiting the Northcliffe Info Centre and discovering that the tram ride is $24 per head and “its a tram” and “it goes through the forest” we decided against that. The berry pancakes on the other hand are berry pancakes and they come with ice cream and hot berry sauce. We have a winner ladies and gentlemen. All power to the Lavender and Berry Farm people, they did not disappoint – superb.

The farm is pretty - the pancakes are pretty spectacular

Given we had “done Pemberton” we decided to head on and stay overnight at Augusta. That will make it nearly 400 km's for the day but that's just one of the crosses we have to bear, don't pity us, we do what we have to do.

The drive today, all day, has been beautiful A bit of variety in that there has been a lot of forests, coming right up to the side of the road and still some very very very big trees. The WA roads department seems to have a very minimalist approach to cutting down trees to put in a road. That is, if there is room to lay the bitumen stop cutting back the trees, no need for a shoulder. It will encourage drivers to stay on the black stuff.

Arriving in Augusta we checked into the Turners caravan Park, right on the banks of the mighty Blackwood River. The guy (hippy) at reception was a little stressed because they had a big crowd in for the long weekend and he had over a 120 people check out this morning. Not quite sure what the problem was with people checking out as most people just hook up and drive away but anyway he was a bit flustered the poor dear. He did say that he would put us on a site near the river and the amenities block though.

View from the front - quite nice

Would have preferred to be not quite so close to the amenities block though as people had to walk through MM to get into the showers. OK, another exaggeration, but we were very close.

to the back - not so

Went for a bit of a walk along the river and we are now rating Augusta, officially, as a “hidden gem”

On the other hand internet reception is still bad and we weren't able to connect with El on Skype as we had planned.

Sign out the front says "last cafe before Antarctica"

For those of us worried about our diet we settled for a half serve of chicken and vege stir fry tonight in a token effort to compensate for the berry pancakes and cappuccino.

Step 52 Albany – Denmark 152 kms

Friday 4^th March T.E.D.

Woke to the best weather Albany has presented since we have been here, clear blue sky and no wind. Not that it has been in anyway unpleasant until now anyway. Did all the maintenance checks on MM and filled what needed to be filled and emptied what needed to be emptied and then we were on our way.

Headed out on the scenic drive into town that follows the path that Steve has been walking along. Stopped off at a very scenic spot, Dan Murphy's, to pick up some essentials including some vintage classics at $2.50 a bottle (the vintage was Monday last week I think). It's important to have wine available for Wine O'clock or Di gets tetchy. Luckily she is getting used to the Chateau Cheapo. Also decided that buying beer for Steve by the slab makes more (price) sense than just picking up 6 packs here and there. Still trying to work out how Steve can pick up an (abdominal) six pack, but I think we are all agreed that ship has sailed.

Next stop Mt Barker in the Plantaganet district and home to the Plantaganet Winery (but not the Plantaganet Kings, starting with Henry II, who ruled England from 1154 until 1485,ending with the War of the Roses).

Decided to skip the winery and tasting (didn't think they would have any $2.50 specials) so drove on in to town and ended up having a salad roll for an early lunch at the bakery (which like all country businesses it seems, is up for sale).

The scenic route into Denmark was extremely scenic and very pleasant and the 152 km's just whizzed by.

Having watched one of the caravan and camping magazine DVDs the other night we were both very excited as we pulled into the Denmark Information Centre, all aquiver with anticipation at seeing Bert Bolle's barometer collection including his Guiness World Record Breaking GIANT barometer. Imagine our disappointment then to discover that Bert has packed up his barometers and left town. What a let down.

Nonetheless it's a big weekend in Denmark for this Labour Day long weekend in WA. A big wine festival, including the Waifs playing a concert at one of the wineries as well as a New Age (old hippies) Festival. The Waifs as you would all be well aware are one of WA's finest musical exports, and this weekend sees them returning home after a long stint in the US of A.

View from Mt Shadforth

All too exciting for Di and I, so after a quick trip to the lookout at Mt Shadforth (where we looked out and went aaah) it was time to check into the Ocean Beach Big 4 caravan Park. It is now not surprising that they had vacancies as the park is huge with a capital hugh. We have a nice, large enough site with a bit of shade from some trees. Although we are right opposite tent city.

Editors note: It's hard to be snobby when you are actually homeless and living in a delivery van, but honestly tents!

I took this photo from an angle so that you couldn't see the tents

We (well Steve) put the electric frypan to the test tonight and cooked up roast pork chops and roast vegetables. The frypan came through with flying colours. Very nice.

In another exciting finish to another exciting day we finished off NCIS Series 4. This is starting to get worrying now though, only 15 episodes left in our on-board collection. If Jake doesn't come through with the updates we are going to run out and that can only mean one thing. We will have to talk to each other.

Slight shower overnight but we are all warm and cosy in MM.

Saturday 5^th March

It was a little grey and drizzling when we woke up but it's trying hard to clear up, nothing that looks like spoiling our day though. Unlike the couple who arrived and starting setting up their tent. Their day was looking like being a long, unpleasant one. After spending over half an hour in “animated” discussion while setting up the tent, culminating in the wife going for a walk on her own. The tent was promptly dismantled and packed up and they climbed back in the car and drove off. Happy campers? Not these two.

Steve and Di however, the epitomy of marital bliss, strolled hand in hand through the dunes for a walk. Steve nearly spoiled that serenity by suggesting “I think if we follow this path here we will end up at the beach”. Luckily, while we didn't end up at the beach we did end up back where we started and were able to follow the main path out the front gate of the park that Di so succinctly pointed out “is the way I suggested in the first place”

I know the Black Swan is the emblem of WA (and a vey nice range of dips)
but there were hundreds of them right out the front of the park

I'm sure this guy was standing when I hit the button

Quiet afternoon but the day finished nicely as we were serenaded by the guitar playing couple in the tent next door. We made a point of getting the ear plugs in and trying to get off to sleep quickly once the guitar playing stopped though.

Sunday 6^th March

Unfortunately it was pretty miserable weather wise when we woke up but ever the intrepid explorers we decided to head on down to Walpole and the Valley of the Giants anyway.

Not far out of Walpole we noticed that this must be an affluent area. Of the twenty cars that passed us going the other way eighteen were Porsches. Di reckons that it looked like a Porsche Car Club Rally but I think she is underselling the people of Walpole.

With the rain continuing as we drove along, we started to question our pioneering spirit, but as has become normal for this trip, as we arrived at the Valley of the Giants the skies cleared and the rain stopped.

Now the Valley of the Giants is named after Aaron Sandilands, the ruckman for the Fremantle Dockers

I think he is standing on tiptoe

But in a strange coincidence, there is a forest there of Giant Tingle Trees. Must be something in the water.

The state government has built a tourist facility there, including a tree top walk. Unfortunately due to a continuing problem with Steve's courage (or rather lack thereof) we were unable to partake of the walk which takes you, on swaying, grid floored walkways, suspended by very thin cables 40 meters into the treetops to take in the majesty of the forest. In my defence I overheard a 10 year old girl who had already done the walk talking to her friend and she said it was “like, REALLY scary”.

You want me to climb up there??

We were however able to partake in the walk into the Ancient Empire, which takes place entirely at ground level.

These lumps are called "burls"
I think it's because they look like Burl Ives stomach

EDITORS NOTE: For those of you using this blog as a fill in until Richard Attenborough does another series: “The Tingle trees are some of the most enormous trees in the world and can only be seen in the Walpole Wilderness in WA's Southern Forest region. They are the largest of the Eucalypts and live for hundreds of years, growing up to 80 metres high and developing a girth of 20 metres (which is bigger than Oprah at her absolute biggest)”.

On the way back to Denmark we couldn't resist stopping in at the Ducketts Mill Winery and Cheesery (no really Cheesery is a word). Given we had stocked up on the $2.50 Bowlers Run range of wines at Dan's we didn't bother with the $30 Ducketts Mill range of wines but we did manage to pick up some very nice cheese.

Back at the van, fearful of a hot spell rolling in tomorrow, we ate all the cheese in case it went off.

Step 51 Bremer Bay - Albany 191 km's

Monday 28^th February

Drive to Albany is a mixture of commercial forests and National Parks. We are getting into timber country, tall timber.

Did a quick lap of the town of Albany, not remembering it much from my visit here in 1973 with the family. Only 38 years ago and I don't remember, what has happened to my memory?

Stopped for lunch at the Jester pie shop. Our first ever jaffle pies and very tasty they were too. Who would have thought of combining pies and jaffles, but it works. The chips helped the whole experience too.

After a quick top-up at the supermarket it was off to check in to the Middleton Beach Big 4 Caravan Park. Slight problem “there is no room at the inn” well actually it's no powered sites available at the caravan park. Luckily they can squeeze us (literally) on to the emergency, unpowered site  for tonight and then we can have a powered site for two nights.

Apparently it's a long weekend coming up in WA (Labour Day) and there are a couple of festivals and activities going on so it's a popular spot. In fact they can only fit us in until Thursday night and after that they are booked out. This is getting serious, we are going to have to plan ahead. That wasn't in the plan!

Once we settled in we had a quick explore and discovered the park is very swish, heated pool, spa, games room with pool table and air hockey and a separate, upstairs coffee lounge. Due to the lack of power on the site we set up for wine o'clock in the games room so we could plug the Mac in to keep it charged. What's this in the corner? Could it be? Yes, an Operation Wolf video game. Now at least one of our readers will remember Operation Wolf from the 1980's and the hours and pounds we spent playing the game in pubs before getting a version to run on the (original) PC. Does life get any better than this.

Having said that it's extremely windy and there was even some rain overnight.

Tuesday 1^st March – Albany day tour in MM

Steve got another one of his bursts of energy and headed out for a walk before breakfast. Started off on the beach but it's covered in bluebottles (jellyfish not, actual blue, bottles) so ended up on the cliff walking path. It winds it's way along the coast and has great views over the bays and inlets. By the time I got back to MM Di had managed to get out of bed (ow that hurt Di, don't punch).

Took us awhile to be able to get onto tonights site because the previous tenants haven't vacated so settled in for a coffee and a relaxing read.

After lunch it was off on the tourist trail. We headed towards Frenchmans Bay in search of Whale World. I'm not sure if they are a bit embarrassed about the whole whale hunting connection but the place is not exactly well sign-posted. On the way though we managed to find a couple of the attractions from the tourist brochures: the Gap and the Natural Bridge, more spectacular coastline and granite cliffs. Again ignoring our own health and safety your intrepid blog editors ventured out in to the wild and dangerous environment.

Yes, that flimsy little platform hanging over the raging ocean
 is where your intrepid Editor stood to get the photo's

Eventually found Whale World at the end of the road. It's actually on the site of the last operating Whaling station in Australia as well as scene of Peter King's now famous Great White Shark hunting expeditions (although there is no mention of those exploits that we could see in the exhibits). 

The tour guide did give enough of a graphic description of the scenes in the bay when the whales were being bought in and the sharks feeding frenzies for us to shiver though.

A re-enactment from Moby Dick
He did not feel the wind, or smell the salt air. He only stood, staring at the horizon,
with the marks of some inner crucifixion and woe deep in his face. 

Not again Bosun, you did this to us at Whyalla.
When I say reverse, I mean reverse!

Filled up with diesel on the way back to the park and we needed over 70 litres (and spent over $100 for the first time). Really must check the manual and see how big the tank is.

Took advantage of the park facilities and cooked dinner on the camp BBQ tonight. (Just being thoughtful and saving Di some washing up. I spoil that woman).

Wednesday 2^nd March

Lazy day in MM today. Well not completely lazy, Di did a bit of cleaning, gave Steve a haircut. Steve did a bit of catching up on the blog and we both managed to get in a bit of reading. The weather was pretty ordinary, bit overcast and still very windy. Also managed to organise accommodation for the long weekend, after ringing 4 parks that were all booked out we managed to get in to the Ocean Beach Big 4 at Denmark. Mind you the old free enterprise system is working at it's best. Supply and demand means they are charging $45 per night with a 3 night minimum for the weekend. Big 4 discount knocks of 10% for us but it's still well above budget.

Thursday 3^rd March

Steve off on another walk before breakfast, must be the sea air.

Fish and chips for lunch today, or rather fish, chips and salt and pepper squid. Just got takeaway at the Calamaris on the Beach and sat up in the park to eat them looking out over the bay. The council has done a great job setting up tables and benches in a natural amphitheatre set-up with all the benches looking out to sea, and sheltered from the wind.

Knowing that we are leaving tomorrow Steve stopped in for a quick play on the operation Wolf game (getting a bit emotional just thinking about leaving it behind. Despite the fact I can't get past level 2!)

Had a quick chat to the guy next door this afternoon, he is carrying a little motor scooter on the back of his van that his wife uses when he takes the 4WD out to go surfing. Only weighs 90kgs (the scooter not the wife). No Stephen it's not going to work, don't even think about it, you can't have a scooter.

Step 50 Hopetoun – Bremer Bay 292 km's

Sunday 27^th February T.E.D.

Di started off with the driving this morning and we managed the 50 km's back to main highway without any further emu incidents.

Countryside is alternating between farm land (grain I think) and National Parks (or possibly biospheres).

Quick stop at Jerramungup for morning tea in MM before heading on in to the metropolis of Bremer Bay.

OK, it's not exactly a metropolis, in fact there isn't really a town at all. A general store in one spot, a petrol station in another, a local hall somewhere else and two caravan parks 5 kilometres apart.

What it does have though is access to the beach that was suitable for MM. Well suitable might bit a bit strong but we did get MM out on the sand anyway. Will the adventure never end for action Steve and nervous Di? It was pretty spectacular sitting in the van eating lunch, looking out the door across the sand to the sea though.

After following the scenic route around the coast line to check out some of the other bays we ended up at the Top Tourist park and checked in.

After 3 laps of the park trying to find a site we eventually found a suitable spot to set-up. But the sites were so strangely laid out, for awhile I felt like an Irishman sent into a circular room and told to stand in the corner. I just couldn't work it out. 

Still struggling with internet reception, as we have been for a couple of weeks now, but managed to stay connected long enough to catch up a bit with the news and even a couple of blog updates.

Surprisingly, I learned from our travels so far and in particular our experience at South West Rocks. So this time when I headed off to the amenities block after dark I was ready for an encounter with Skippy. Skippy on the other hand was not prepared and still got a shock.

Step 49 Esperance – Hopetoun 237 km's

Saturday 26^th February

Quick stop to see Sammy the sea lion at the tanker jetty before leaving Esperance but unfortunately Sammy had a prior engagement and wasn't there. 

Sammy is that busy these days they have made a statue so people who miss him aren't so disappointed

His mate Tommy the turtle was there but to be honest Tommy has seen better days. In fact I wouldn't be surprised if Tommy is an ex-turtle by now.

The road to Hopetoun via Ravensthorpe was longer, and less entertaining than expected but we did get to drive through the edges of the Fitzgerald Biosphere, my first biosphere I think. On the other hand it looked a lot like a National Park so maybe I've been in a biosphere before and didn't realise it.

The Ravensthorpe brochure writers have obviously attended the “how to oversell your town” writing course but luckily we were only passing through.

Bit of excitement on the Ravey to Hopey road (as we locals call it, the less travelled amongst you would know it as the Ravensthorpe-Hopetoun road). There we were, MM cruising along nicely when a family of emus leapt out of the trees, down an embankment and across the road right in front of us. Glad we had the brakes done before we left Melbourne. Might need to do some underpants washing tomorrow though. Dad emu looked a bit indignant as MM screeched to a halt but seriously I think he was just fed up looking after the kids and was trying to get rid of them.

Hopetoun Beach

The park at Hopetoun is quite nice, very rural, bush setting, slab sites and lots of trees 

but Di is less than impressed with the Ladies amenities block. She has gone so far as to rate them the worst for the trip so far. Good job we are only staying overnight.

The park is well positioned though with a short walk through the dunes to the beach and a short walk along the beach into town. Not quite sure how they survive but the town consists of a Pub, with restaurant, an IGA supermarket and four coffee shops (two with full restaurants). That is the entire town, unless we missed something. Apparently they were going to set up a nickel mine nearby so maybe they geared up for that because it's a long drive from Perth for a coffee.

Four coffee shops, but only one pub

Step 48 Cape Le Grand – back to Esperance 62 km's (plus 100km's touring the park)

Friday 25^th February

Planning ahead, for a change, we have already booked in for the night back at the Esperance Caravan Park, so no hurry to check in.

Took off on the Esperance Great Ocean drive and again this coastline is nothing short of spectacular.

After what seems to be only 500 metres there is another bay, another cliff, another white white sandy beach, another glimpse of this glorious coastline.

After half a dozen or so beaches we stopped at Salmon beach and got ready to jump in for a swim. However while getting ready we were treated to the sight of a guy pulling up on his Harley with his leg in plaster. That's the biker spirit, "no broken leg is going to stop me taking the hog out for a ride". Now I would have taken a photo for you but as you know bikers don't like you taking photo's of them because they believe it takes away a piece of their soul. No wait, that's some African tribe I think, bikers don't like you taking their photo because they think you are with the police and so they take away a piece of your soul, by grabbing you by the throat. Whatever, no photo.

I think the camera has narrowed the angle -
it was a lot further out than it looks

We also noticed people swimming out to a small island and checking out the view. Still inspired by action girl from Fowler's Bay, Action Steve took to the water. Now putting on my swimming goggles seemed like a good idea until I started thinking about what else might be in the water with me, and being able to see with the goggles on was not helping. What was that shadow??? OK now the seeing is not the problem, how come I'm swimming as hard as I can and the island is not getting any closer? OK, breast stroke for a bit. OK doggy paddle. OK, made it, now how did people climb up here? Slippery little sucker ain't it?

Eventually, having made it up on to the island and much later having regained my breath I reflected on the need for a bit more walking and a bit less cream cakes. Another alternative/addition might be to take swimming lessons. Anyway even more eventually the view was worth it. It looks like the rock/island is really protecting the bay because on the far side the ocean is much wilder. Mmm, maybe thats's where the current was coming from before. While out there chatted to a guy who has just started his round Australia jaunt, he's a surfer/plumber from Margaret River and he's going to work his way around. He assured me that the swim in was going to be easier.

And it was.

Sat and ate lunch in MM and felt blessed that we live in Australia. Was also feeling quite good that Australia gets a lot of European visitors, in European swimsuits (Editors note: swimsuit fashion for this season is high cut). Then Di noticed I was feeling good about our overseas visitors, muttered something about sad old man and encouraged me to head off, back on the Ocean Drive. 

Lot of steps but we felt no pain - we didn't go down 

Really shouldn't be surprised how windy it has been here
if they bother to build all these wind farms

The drive deviates from the Ocean for awhile and heads on past the famous Pink Lake, which although it doesn't show up too well in the photo's really is pink.

Stopped off at Oceans Blue Cafe on the way back through town for another one of their superb affogattos and Di had another cappuccino before ducking in to the supermarket for a stock up. We might have had another piece of cheesecake while we were in the cafe too, so much for cutting back on the cakes to improve the swimming.

Back at the caravan park we are in a site two down from the one we left. While chatting to our old friends from Strathalbyn/Port Lincoln we were treated to the Esperance dolphin show. Right out the front of the caravan park. While quite spectacular, dolphins leaping out of the water doing somersaults,it was an extremely short show, about 45 seconds in all, but it was free. Editors note: yep I missed the photo's of that as well.

Surprisingly the wind has dropped so we were able to cook and eat tea outside for the first time in ages. After tea got an astronomy refresher lesson from the next door neighbours and I now remember how to find Alpha & Beta Centauri and the Southern Cross so I can now confidently navigate my way across the country. (as long as the batteries don't go flat on the GPS).