Step 51 Bremer Bay - Albany 191 km's

Monday 28^th February

Drive to Albany is a mixture of commercial forests and National Parks. We are getting into timber country, tall timber.

Did a quick lap of the town of Albany, not remembering it much from my visit here in 1973 with the family. Only 38 years ago and I don't remember, what has happened to my memory?

Stopped for lunch at the Jester pie shop. Our first ever jaffle pies and very tasty they were too. Who would have thought of combining pies and jaffles, but it works. The chips helped the whole experience too.

After a quick top-up at the supermarket it was off to check in to the Middleton Beach Big 4 Caravan Park. Slight problem “there is no room at the inn” well actually it's no powered sites available at the caravan park. Luckily they can squeeze us (literally) on to the emergency, unpowered site  for tonight and then we can have a powered site for two nights.

Apparently it's a long weekend coming up in WA (Labour Day) and there are a couple of festivals and activities going on so it's a popular spot. In fact they can only fit us in until Thursday night and after that they are booked out. This is getting serious, we are going to have to plan ahead. That wasn't in the plan!

Once we settled in we had a quick explore and discovered the park is very swish, heated pool, spa, games room with pool table and air hockey and a separate, upstairs coffee lounge. Due to the lack of power on the site we set up for wine o'clock in the games room so we could plug the Mac in to keep it charged. What's this in the corner? Could it be? Yes, an Operation Wolf video game. Now at least one of our readers will remember Operation Wolf from the 1980's and the hours and pounds we spent playing the game in pubs before getting a version to run on the (original) PC. Does life get any better than this.

Having said that it's extremely windy and there was even some rain overnight.

Tuesday 1^st March – Albany day tour in MM

Steve got another one of his bursts of energy and headed out for a walk before breakfast. Started off on the beach but it's covered in bluebottles (jellyfish not, actual blue, bottles) so ended up on the cliff walking path. It winds it's way along the coast and has great views over the bays and inlets. By the time I got back to MM Di had managed to get out of bed (ow that hurt Di, don't punch).

Took us awhile to be able to get onto tonights site because the previous tenants haven't vacated so settled in for a coffee and a relaxing read.

After lunch it was off on the tourist trail. We headed towards Frenchmans Bay in search of Whale World. I'm not sure if they are a bit embarrassed about the whole whale hunting connection but the place is not exactly well sign-posted. On the way though we managed to find a couple of the attractions from the tourist brochures: the Gap and the Natural Bridge, more spectacular coastline and granite cliffs. Again ignoring our own health and safety your intrepid blog editors ventured out in to the wild and dangerous environment.

Yes, that flimsy little platform hanging over the raging ocean
 is where your intrepid Editor stood to get the photo's

Eventually found Whale World at the end of the road. It's actually on the site of the last operating Whaling station in Australia as well as scene of Peter King's now famous Great White Shark hunting expeditions (although there is no mention of those exploits that we could see in the exhibits). 

The tour guide did give enough of a graphic description of the scenes in the bay when the whales were being bought in and the sharks feeding frenzies for us to shiver though.

A re-enactment from Moby Dick
He did not feel the wind, or smell the salt air. He only stood, staring at the horizon,
with the marks of some inner crucifixion and woe deep in his face. 

Not again Bosun, you did this to us at Whyalla.
When I say reverse, I mean reverse!

Filled up with diesel on the way back to the park and we needed over 70 litres (and spent over $100 for the first time). Really must check the manual and see how big the tank is.

Took advantage of the park facilities and cooked dinner on the camp BBQ tonight. (Just being thoughtful and saving Di some washing up. I spoil that woman).

Wednesday 2^nd March

Lazy day in MM today. Well not completely lazy, Di did a bit of cleaning, gave Steve a haircut. Steve did a bit of catching up on the blog and we both managed to get in a bit of reading. The weather was pretty ordinary, bit overcast and still very windy. Also managed to organise accommodation for the long weekend, after ringing 4 parks that were all booked out we managed to get in to the Ocean Beach Big 4 at Denmark. Mind you the old free enterprise system is working at it's best. Supply and demand means they are charging $45 per night with a 3 night minimum for the weekend. Big 4 discount knocks of 10% for us but it's still well above budget.

Thursday 3^rd March

Steve off on another walk before breakfast, must be the sea air.

Fish and chips for lunch today, or rather fish, chips and salt and pepper squid. Just got takeaway at the Calamaris on the Beach and sat up in the park to eat them looking out over the bay. The council has done a great job setting up tables and benches in a natural amphitheatre set-up with all the benches looking out to sea, and sheltered from the wind.

Knowing that we are leaving tomorrow Steve stopped in for a quick play on the operation Wolf game (getting a bit emotional just thinking about leaving it behind. Despite the fact I can't get past level 2!)

Had a quick chat to the guy next door this afternoon, he is carrying a little motor scooter on the back of his van that his wife uses when he takes the 4WD out to go surfing. Only weighs 90kgs (the scooter not the wife). No Stephen it's not going to work, don't even think about it, you can't have a scooter.

Step 50 Hopetoun – Bremer Bay 292 km's

Sunday 27^th February T.E.D.

Di started off with the driving this morning and we managed the 50 km's back to main highway without any further emu incidents.

Countryside is alternating between farm land (grain I think) and National Parks (or possibly biospheres).

Quick stop at Jerramungup for morning tea in MM before heading on in to the metropolis of Bremer Bay.

OK, it's not exactly a metropolis, in fact there isn't really a town at all. A general store in one spot, a petrol station in another, a local hall somewhere else and two caravan parks 5 kilometres apart.

What it does have though is access to the beach that was suitable for MM. Well suitable might bit a bit strong but we did get MM out on the sand anyway. Will the adventure never end for action Steve and nervous Di? It was pretty spectacular sitting in the van eating lunch, looking out the door across the sand to the sea though.

After following the scenic route around the coast line to check out some of the other bays we ended up at the Top Tourist park and checked in.

After 3 laps of the park trying to find a site we eventually found a suitable spot to set-up. But the sites were so strangely laid out, for awhile I felt like an Irishman sent into a circular room and told to stand in the corner. I just couldn't work it out. 

Still struggling with internet reception, as we have been for a couple of weeks now, but managed to stay connected long enough to catch up a bit with the news and even a couple of blog updates.

Surprisingly, I learned from our travels so far and in particular our experience at South West Rocks. So this time when I headed off to the amenities block after dark I was ready for an encounter with Skippy. Skippy on the other hand was not prepared and still got a shock.

Step 49 Esperance – Hopetoun 237 km's

Saturday 26^th February

Quick stop to see Sammy the sea lion at the tanker jetty before leaving Esperance but unfortunately Sammy had a prior engagement and wasn't there. 

Sammy is that busy these days they have made a statue so people who miss him aren't so disappointed

His mate Tommy the turtle was there but to be honest Tommy has seen better days. In fact I wouldn't be surprised if Tommy is an ex-turtle by now.

The road to Hopetoun via Ravensthorpe was longer, and less entertaining than expected but we did get to drive through the edges of the Fitzgerald Biosphere, my first biosphere I think. On the other hand it looked a lot like a National Park so maybe I've been in a biosphere before and didn't realise it.

The Ravensthorpe brochure writers have obviously attended the “how to oversell your town” writing course but luckily we were only passing through.

Bit of excitement on the Ravey to Hopey road (as we locals call it, the less travelled amongst you would know it as the Ravensthorpe-Hopetoun road). There we were, MM cruising along nicely when a family of emus leapt out of the trees, down an embankment and across the road right in front of us. Glad we had the brakes done before we left Melbourne. Might need to do some underpants washing tomorrow though. Dad emu looked a bit indignant as MM screeched to a halt but seriously I think he was just fed up looking after the kids and was trying to get rid of them.

Hopetoun Beach

The park at Hopetoun is quite nice, very rural, bush setting, slab sites and lots of trees 

but Di is less than impressed with the Ladies amenities block. She has gone so far as to rate them the worst for the trip so far. Good job we are only staying overnight.

The park is well positioned though with a short walk through the dunes to the beach and a short walk along the beach into town. Not quite sure how they survive but the town consists of a Pub, with restaurant, an IGA supermarket and four coffee shops (two with full restaurants). That is the entire town, unless we missed something. Apparently they were going to set up a nickel mine nearby so maybe they geared up for that because it's a long drive from Perth for a coffee.

Four coffee shops, but only one pub

Step 48 Cape Le Grand – back to Esperance 62 km's (plus 100km's touring the park)

Friday 25^th February

Planning ahead, for a change, we have already booked in for the night back at the Esperance Caravan Park, so no hurry to check in.

Took off on the Esperance Great Ocean drive and again this coastline is nothing short of spectacular.

After what seems to be only 500 metres there is another bay, another cliff, another white white sandy beach, another glimpse of this glorious coastline.

After half a dozen or so beaches we stopped at Salmon beach and got ready to jump in for a swim. However while getting ready we were treated to the sight of a guy pulling up on his Harley with his leg in plaster. That's the biker spirit, "no broken leg is going to stop me taking the hog out for a ride". Now I would have taken a photo for you but as you know bikers don't like you taking photo's of them because they believe it takes away a piece of their soul. No wait, that's some African tribe I think, bikers don't like you taking their photo because they think you are with the police and so they take away a piece of your soul, by grabbing you by the throat. Whatever, no photo.

I think the camera has narrowed the angle -
it was a lot further out than it looks

We also noticed people swimming out to a small island and checking out the view. Still inspired by action girl from Fowler's Bay, Action Steve took to the water. Now putting on my swimming goggles seemed like a good idea until I started thinking about what else might be in the water with me, and being able to see with the goggles on was not helping. What was that shadow??? OK now the seeing is not the problem, how come I'm swimming as hard as I can and the island is not getting any closer? OK, breast stroke for a bit. OK doggy paddle. OK, made it, now how did people climb up here? Slippery little sucker ain't it?

Eventually, having made it up on to the island and much later having regained my breath I reflected on the need for a bit more walking and a bit less cream cakes. Another alternative/addition might be to take swimming lessons. Anyway even more eventually the view was worth it. It looks like the rock/island is really protecting the bay because on the far side the ocean is much wilder. Mmm, maybe thats's where the current was coming from before. While out there chatted to a guy who has just started his round Australia jaunt, he's a surfer/plumber from Margaret River and he's going to work his way around. He assured me that the swim in was going to be easier.

And it was.

Sat and ate lunch in MM and felt blessed that we live in Australia. Was also feeling quite good that Australia gets a lot of European visitors, in European swimsuits (Editors note: swimsuit fashion for this season is high cut). Then Di noticed I was feeling good about our overseas visitors, muttered something about sad old man and encouraged me to head off, back on the Ocean Drive. 

Lot of steps but we felt no pain - we didn't go down 

Really shouldn't be surprised how windy it has been here
if they bother to build all these wind farms

The drive deviates from the Ocean for awhile and heads on past the famous Pink Lake, which although it doesn't show up too well in the photo's really is pink.

Stopped off at Oceans Blue Cafe on the way back through town for another one of their superb affogattos and Di had another cappuccino before ducking in to the supermarket for a stock up. We might have had another piece of cheesecake while we were in the cafe too, so much for cutting back on the cakes to improve the swimming.

Back at the caravan park we are in a site two down from the one we left. While chatting to our old friends from Strathalbyn/Port Lincoln we were treated to the Esperance dolphin show. Right out the front of the caravan park. While quite spectacular, dolphins leaping out of the water doing somersaults,it was an extremely short show, about 45 seconds in all, but it was free. Editors note: yep I missed the photo's of that as well.

Surprisingly the wind has dropped so we were able to cook and eat tea outside for the first time in ages. After tea got an astronomy refresher lesson from the next door neighbours and I now remember how to find Alpha & Beta Centauri and the Southern Cross so I can now confidently navigate my way across the country. (as long as the batteries don't go flat on the GPS).

Normal service will be resumed shortly - in the meantime......

As MANY of you have pointed out there has been a distinct lack of updates lately.

Now while I do bear some of the responsibility for this, we have been having some problems with Internet connection lately. Connections have been intermittent at best and at times non-existent.

As of Tuesday March 8th we are in Margaret River and I will endeavour to get up to date while we have connection. In the meantime here is a contribution from one of our readers who couldn't wait:

I have you just finishing up at Margaret River, having just found out that 2009 Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay won the national award for something good to drink.  Located in Cowaramup, WA they are only 300 odd k's from Perth. Editors note: nearly right Phil, we are actually still in the Margaret River but since the Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay doesn't come in a cask we can't confirm how good it is to drink.

 

So now I imagine you need to press on towards Perth because you have a plane to catch, regretting that you are passing through all this premiere wine country quickly without being able to take more time.  But you vow to come back this way when you return from Europe, knowing deep down that you won't!

 

You guys must be looking forward to the plane trip now, all those non home cooked meals and unlimited drinks.... don't forget to order the nuts.  Ready for the weather shock and reminder of how tough life in the north of England is at the moment.  

 

Just need to find a safe spot for MM for a while, hopefully a conveniently located friend with a big backyard!  Otherwise its the long term carpark at the Airport and I forgot my ticket when you return trick, charge me the full 5 days then mate. 

Having just read that again I am not sure I should post it as it could actually be more entertaining then the regular posts. Oh well I'll take a chance that you will stick with us anyway.

Be back soon.

Regards

Editor in Chief & Director of Proof Reading

Step 47 Esperance to Cape le Grande – 62 km's

Wednesday 23^rd February

Before leaving Esperance we picked up the WA National Park Annual Pass for $80. Given it covers the whole of WA and day entry is $11 we should get our money's worth out of it.

Just to finish off my birthday celebrations we ducked into Macca's before heading off into the wilderness of the National Park. Likewise a stop at the supermarket to provision up for the ordeals ahead over the next couple of days. OK given it's only 60 km's away and it has proper toilets and showers wilderness might be a bit of an exaggeration but there's no power so we had the Macca's anyway.

We got to Cape le Grand beach at 11:30 and had a quick look at the van parking area, only two spots left (well there is only 15 to start with). Given the advice from V & H and G & D we decided to grab one of the spots while we could. That turned out to be a very good idea as for the next two days nobody moved out,  so people were turned away. The site has no direct view of the ocean but there is a little sand dune behind us and standing on top of that you can see back over the national park and in the other direction out over the bay.

I think I could run out of superlatives in this section, this part of the country is nothing short of spectacular and a match for any coastal region in the world I would venture to suggest. White sands, granite cliffs, turquoise (or is that azure) blue seas. Islands in the bay (not to be confused with the Dolly Parton & Kenny Rogers duet, Islands in the Stream. Although now that I think about it, a couple of the islands did remind me of Dolly Parton).

Cape le Grand Bay - and Dolly Island

After lunch in MM we ventured off for a walk along the beach. While casually ambling along, paddling in the shallows I noticed a fish swimming along beside us. Now it was no Great White Shark but I think any fisherman would have been very happy to have it on the end of their line. I estimate it to be a 2 foot long, 3 kilogram Australian Salmon. But then again I know nothing about fish and I am prone to exaggeration.

This is no Loch Ness Monster photo - this thing was huuuuuuuge

I seriously contemplated rushing back to MM and taping my swiss army pen-knife to the broom handle and coming back to spear it. But then I remembered that's how Lord of the Flies started and we all know how badly that ended.

Chatted to another couple on the beach and they said this and Hellfire Beach were their favourites with Lucky Bay third. They said Lucky Bay has a lot of seaweed on it at the moment and there are no kangaroos on the beach (mmm, another brochure overstatement ? ).

After the exhausting walk we decided to reward ourselves with wine o'clock on the beach. So after two trips back to the van (the second to get a board to use as a table) we settled in to take in the view.

Unfortunately the tail end of the cyclone from up North decided to come through at about that time and our biscuits and one of the dip's disappeared down the beach at a great rate of knots.

Aaah well, thanks to stocking up for this wilderness leg, luckily we have spare's back at MM.

The volounteer National Park guides came round to collect the fees soon after that so we ended booking in for two nights. At $9 per head per night this is definitely should be marked as a top value site. Based on our experiment on the battery life we figure we should be alright for a couple of days plus we will probably go for a drive tomorrow which will top up a little anyway. The biggest concern is battery life on the PC running out and depriving us of NCIS!!

Thursday 24^th February

Now this is pretty awesome. Woke to the sound of the waves crashing on the beach and sun shining in through the curtains.

Steve finding a hidden reserve of energy leapt up and decided to walk a bit of the Le Grand Coastal trail. The sign, as always, was inviting, to quote: medium to HARD walking; traverses the STEEP slopes of Mt Le Grand; watch for ornate DRAGON lizards. OK still got the energy losing the desire though

 Just remember the motto: "What could go wrong".

OK the sign said: "except for beach sections the trail is marked by rock cairns wooden pegs and trimmed vegetation

Anybody see a rock cairn, wooden peg or trimmed vegetation in this photo.

No, neither could I.

Help.

OK, don't panic, just head back down the hill. 

Yep there's the path, all's good. 

Oh no I'm getting delirious, it's a mirage there are two young girl backpackers walking towards me. 

It's like a scene from Picnic at Hanging Rock (well it might not be, I haven't actually seen Picnic at Hanging Rock, so I can't be really sure).  

Goodness, they appear to have French accents, they are bound to be helpful then (that's sarcasm). 

As we pass they mutter something about Agincourt and "if bloody Captain Le Grand had been here a week earlier this would all be ours".  

But for me it's just a relief to have survived the terrors of Mt Le Grand. Goodness, a hero one day, intrepid explorer climbing nearly to the top of Mt Le Grand before breakfast the next. It's all a long way from the computer nerd of a few short months ago.

The view from the top, back into the park

and on the other side - the sea

After breakfast, a quick dose of oxygen and the calming influence of Di we set up the table and chairs to reserve our camp site and headed off for a tour of the park.

Frenchman's Peak. Yes, you can climb to the top. No, we did not.

First stop Hellfire Bay and we would have to say that this is just about the most beautful spot so far on the trip and as far as beaches go one of the best we have seen, ever.

Came back here for lunch

Then it was on to Thistle Cove and Lucky Bay. It is all truly awe inspiring.

Lucky Bay camping ground had the advantage of views from the sites but the vans are closer together and there are more of them so we think we have done the right thing staying where we have.

Today the advantage of day tripping in MM is all the more obvious. When we stop for lunch, drinks are cold straight from the fridge, we can make up salad sandwiches and it's easy enough to change into bathers when we want. So we ended up driving back to Hellfire Bay and sitting on the rocks to eat our rolls and just watch the world go by.

No Skippies on the beach at Luck Bay, but we passed a family having lunch in the bush

Back at Cape le Grand we headed into the water which was “fine, once you get in” which as you know is what people say when the water is bloody cold. So it may look like a tropical island but I'm guessing the water in the tropics is more than a few degrees warmer.

But basically another perfect day in paradise.

Friday 25^th February.

Half way through packing up and people are ready to move onto our site. Apparently they have been trying to get in for the last couple of days so they are grateful to catch us leaving.

A quick iced coffee in the day car park and one long last lingering look at the bay and it's time to head off back to Esperance.

Step 46 Fraser Ridge Station – Esperance via Norseman 326 km's

Sunday 20^th February

Still struggling with the time change, looks like van lag is worse than jet lag? Anyway it meant we woke up early again this morning, but you know me, I have enormous perseverance in things like this, so I just stayed in bed.

Only a short drive into Norseman where we ducked into the Info Centre to get our certificate for crossing the Nullarbor. Come on people, it's a big thing crossing the Nullarbor of course we stopped for the certificate! Yet again the information Centre was a wealth of information, hence the name I guess. So as well as picking up some brochures on things to come we got a run down on the local area from the volounteer there.

Hopefully not too many readers having fantasies about camels - but the fact is they could carry a lot of baggage a long way 

The town seems to have passed it's peak but there still seems to be some activity at the gold mine so who knows. 

Gold mines are not as attractive as gold jewellery

Interestingly here is another case of a faithful animal companion bringing fame and fortune to it's owner. In this case legend has it that a miner returning from an unsuccessful expedition to Coolgardie, stopped here overnight. When he woke up in the morning his horse (Hardy Norseman) had uncovered gold nuggets while pawing the earth overnight. Now maybe if Lulu had pawed the earth outside our house and found gold we would have been much better friends than when she pawed a hole in the laundry door.

This statue will be 21 the day after Elke - we won't be at his party either :-(

Drove up to the Beacon Hill lookout to eat our pies that we bought at the local shop. The view from the lookout gives you a 360 degree perspective of the surrounding area, so while Di chatted to Vicki on the phone Steve did the scenic walk and snapped off a few photo's.

After lunch it was 200 km's down the road to Esperance, not sure what it was but it seemed longer, but not to worry we arrived in Esperance at a reasonable time. After a quick drive around town we discovered that Esperance is closed on Sundays. Well all the shops and supermarkets anyway, so we ended up just checking in at the Top Tourist park on the esplanade, another V & H recommendation. Thank you. Our site has views straight out over the bay and all the islands, here we go again, another million dollar view.

Back at the van the excitement really started. Now hero is a word that is thrown around a lot these days, but if saving a little girls life makes me a hero well what can I say. Well to be perfectly honest I probably could say I didn't actually save a young girls life. So maybe not hero but I would definitely qualify as a good samaritan. Well whatever, I took a couple of blankets down to her mother to help keep little Emily warm while she was laying on the ground badly concussed after an incident while “playing with her brothers on the see-saw”. What can I say, I'm just a caring guy, Di is caring too, after all it was Di who looked up from reading her book on the bed and said “I wonder what's going on down there?”

A working MM - ambulance

Despite my new found hero status, due to the dirth of shopping opportunities (or as normal people say, “because the shops weren't open”) we feasted on baked beans on toasted english muffins for tea.

Lesson for today – If it's Sunday and you are short on options for dinner if you find an open supermarket (as we did in Norseman) buy stuff there in case the supermarket at the place you are going to is closed (as it was at Esperance). Lucky I like baked beans.

The van is rockin again tonight and yet again it's because it's really windy. Outside. But the view is still pretty good

Monday 21^st February – one more sleep

It's a bit overcast this morning but the wind has dropped so we walked into town. Decided to check out the restaurant on Taylor's Jetty for my birthday tomorrow but unfortunately they are closed on Tuesdays and didn't think my birthday warranted opening for – what happened to country hospitality?

Given we were in town and it was lunchtime we ducked into the local bakery and shared a chicken salad wrap, which luckily left us enough room to have a cream cake each.

Back at the van Emily's mum arrived with a pack of Ferroro Rocher as thanks for the blanket yesterday. Wasn't that nice? Why do I have to share them with Di and why am I still not losing weight?

Tuesday 22^nd February – Happy birthday to me – Hip hip hooray

In celebration I did what I enjoy most of all, had a lazy morning. In a bitter sweet moment we finished off the last of our Jean Leary fruit cake, nooo, what do we do now for morning teas?

Obviously being the popular lad that I am I was inundated with phone calls and texts and then we headed off for lunch at the Ocean Blue Cafe. It turns out the other restaurant being closed has worked in our favour, this place is closer, cheaper and has a nicer view. Quite the trifecta. Given the area we are in we opted for the seafood platter – grilled fish, calamari, prawns and scallops – with a side salad and chips. That will do nicely thank you. Oh well if you insist maybe we could just share a slice of pineapple cheesecake and a cappucinno for the lady and an affogatto for me. And could you see if that ambulance from the other day is available I don't think I can walk back to the van now.

I knew a girl like this when I was younger - wish there had been a warning sign then.

Back at the van, eventually.  Today was just like being back at work, lots of phone calls and texts and a three hour lunch. 

Despite it being 27 degrees the wind has really gotten up, an occupational hazard here in Esperance apparently.

As an aside, we started chatting to the couple next door as they felt they had seen us before on the road. Turns out they may be stalking us as they were next to us at Strathalbyn and also at Port Lincoln. Need to keep an eye open in the future.