Thursday, July 14, 2011

Step 81 Kununurra – Lake Argyle 71 km's

Wednesday 29th – Friday 1st July
A short trip up the road to Lake Argyle today, as I mentioned earlier a lot of people have been saying how nice it is up there and we also want to do the River cruise. I also want to catch up with Lee from Sunbury and thank him for his inspirational speech that contributed to my “un-wellness” on the flight over the Bungles.

Predictably when we do catch up with the Sunbury mob everybody finds my misfortune hilarious.
Moving on. Lake Argyle did not disappoint, the drive in is the beautiful Kimberley countryside we have come to love and the caravan park is nestled at the top of a hill overlooking one of the many bays of the Lake. Surprisingly, the infinity pool which features heavily in the park's advertising material actually looks as good as it does in the brochure.





While the Sunbury mob head off on the Sunset cruise and Di catches up on bits and pieces in the van I headed off on an adventure walk along the ridge. Very pleasant it is too, up hill and over dale but very pretty.
Might be time to turn around now Steve 

Having done my exercise for the day is off for an early shower and settle in for a well deserved wine o'clock.

Motorhome ghetto

Thursday 30th June

All this fresh Kimberley air must be getting to me as I managed another walk this morning, up to the water tower lookout this time.
Lesson for today: If the path is to a “lookout” it's more likely to be up hill than down hill.

Anyway, the walk was worth it for the view. In fact it was so good Di got me to drive her up there in MM later so she could check it out.
We had time for the drive because unfortunately the river cruise we had planned to do is not running for some reason. On the other hand it gave us a chance to drive around, over the dam and out for a picnic lunch beside the river. Very pleasant. I am running out of superlatives for the Kimberley countryside, suffice to say it was a very enjoyable day.





In the afternoon we even had time to take a dip in the famous infinity swimming pool.

Lesson 2 for the day: Just because the average temperature up here is in the 30's it doesn't mean that the pool gets warm. Brisk doesn't do it justice, nor does refreshing nor bracing, nor quite cool. Let's go with bloody freezing.

Suggestion for caravan park – solar water heating
View from inside the pool
Didn't get to see it for long - hypothermia was setting in

Wine o'clock outside tonight and despite a few extra flies very pleasant. Whilst out on my evening constitutional chatted to a guy frying up a fish on the BBQ. Freshly caught today down at the spillway. A three kilo Sooty Grunter (I had trouble remembering the name until I associated it with: Maria Sharapova after cleaning the chimney. I then had trouble getting back to thinking about the blog). For our fisher folk readers I believe the fish are also know as black bream (if you are still interested in the fish and can take your mind off the dusty Ms Sharapova).


Editors Apology

Well two apologies really.


  1. This could be the longest break in blogging so far, so apologies for the delay. Let's be honest: it was Elke's fault. So excited about her coming to visit Australia for awhile, and finding her somewhere to live that I got distracted
  2. More importantly in Step 70 I made reference to LUHC (Liverpool University Hockey Club). This was a massive faux pas on my part as there is a MASSIVE campaign to "Bring back the L". Yes indeed readers lets all vote 1: Bring back the L. 
It should be and should always have been
LULHC
Liverpool University
Ladies Hockey Club


Saturday, July 2, 2011

Step 80 Dunham River – Kununurra 224 km's

Thursday 23rd June

For the first time in quite a while it's warm right from the start of the day. In fact we can feel the heat on the side of the van when we wake up. Sorry Melbournians.

In an amazing burst of energy Steve is up early and walking down to the river. All part of my role as editor in chief. On the way in last night I spotted a photo opportunity at the river so I was keen to get back and make sure I captured the shot. Always thinking of you blogsters.


Unfortunately there seemed to be quite a few flies about this morning so it was breakfast inside MM. Not sure how people get used to the insect life but there are plenty of people in the area who ate outside last night and this morning without it worrying them. I know, just call us soft.

Amazingly we set our personal best for the trip and we are on the road by 8:57 this morning.

The Kimberley scenery continues to impress and continues to change as we clock up the kilometres. Plenty of red hills ands greenery today.
You might have noticed: I love the panorama option on my camera

Our travels today take us on a slight detour to Wyndham, a “town” at the junction of five major rivers. Our recommendations have been “it's worth driving in to see the view from the five rivers lookout, but there's nothing much else there”. We have also been told in the last couple of days that for some reason petrol and diesel are 20 cents a litre cheaper than in Kununurra, again for no apparent reason.

It turns out that the lady at the petrol station doesn't share the views of our advisors and spends 15 minutes regaling Di with the delights of “her town”. After a drive around we are leaning more towards our previous advice but we did get to see the Giant Crocodile, to add to our collection of giants (prawn, lobster, banana, guitar.....)
Sage advice on the sign: Do not climb on the crocodile

There was also apparently, a 2,000 (yep two thousand) year old boab tree, but we missed that.

Sandwich lunch in MM up at the lookout and that did not disappoint, magnificent view over the five rivers and the Cambridge Gulf.

This is either one of the (big) rivers or the Cambridge Gulf

Editors note: I know you are all dying to ask. The five rivers are: Ord; Pentecost; King; Durack and (the one I can never remember when telling this story) Forrest.
The Cambridge Gulf was named after the Duke of Cambridge. Not Prince William, the current Duke of Cambridge (who was handed the title by his nan for his performance in the recent “Wedding of the Century”).



The road back to Kununurra passes the other end of the Gibb River Road, the start of which we passed at Derby.
Editors note: The 660kilometre long Gibb River Road was initially constructed to transport cattle from surrounding stations to the ports at Wyndham and Derby. It is now very popular among the 4 wheel drive set who for some reason enjoy taking 20 hours to travel 660 km's all the while having their fillings rattle around in their head as their $100,000 Toyota Landcruiser shakes itself to bits on the corrugations. Did I mention we are soft and non-adventurous, just call me Princess.

Elke taught me how to take photo's like this.
For anybody under the age of 32 this is what 90% of photo's look like
Except that the people in the photo's are younger
And  a lot better looking
(well better looking than the bloke on the right anyway)

This is a grotto
Looks a lot like a gorge
Spectacular though
In the wet season this is a waterfall

Arriving in Kununurra Di again comes through, with the brilliant idea to check in before exploring the town. Managed to get one of the last couple of sites! Booked in for six days, at the Ivanhoe Village Caravan Resort. Ooh ah, resort NOT park, if you don't mind. Mind you the staff are extremely helpful and all very friendly. It's a real pleasure to deal with people who seem to enjoy what they are doing. Must remember that when I get back to work.

Our quick tour of the town reveals that for once we are going to have to shop at Coles. The IGA, not so salubrious.

Editors note: we later found out that the town is a bit crowded at the moment. Not only are we getting into peak grey nomad season but the Turkey Creek community have been relocated here after the floods in March, while the government rebuilds the housing down there. Neither the Turkey Creek mob nor the locals (indigenous and non-indigenous) are particularly happy about the delay in them being able to move home.

In another sign that on this part of the trip paths are always crossing Tony and Jo from Adelaide are two rows across from us in the park resort.

Spent a bit of time over wine o'clock planning out the week ahead and then settled back for a thick cut porterhouse and salad for tea washed down with the last (no really this time it was the last) of our good bottles of red.

After a couple of days without internet we skipped NCIS tonight and caught up with e-mails and internet. Unfortunately we didn't catch up with any multi million dollar Tattslotto wins. Unlike the two people who shared $20 mill on Tuesday and the one person who took out the entire $30mill jackpot on Powerball. I know I could get by with less, but for a brief while I did think I might like the problem of working out what to do with $30 mill.

Friday 24th June – Wednesday 29th June
Five nights left here and we are treating this as a holiday week. All this travelling is tiring, not to mention that the diesel budget is way way over this month.

While Wyndham that we visited the other day is one of the oldest towns in WA, Kununurra is one of the youngest. Founded in the 1960's when the Ord River was dammed to form Lake Argyle and to provide a year round source of water. Government researchers apparently had already worked out that the soil in the area would support commercial crops, provided there was a permanent supply of water. Lo and behold, in a miraculous and momentous event the government actually made it happen and the Ord River dam was built and even more amazingly for the relative cheap sum of $23 million. Almost certainly an anomaly, but maybe just maybe governments can get it right sometimes.

Amazing fact for the day: When they open the spillway gates they can release enough water in an hour to give everybody in Australia 100 litres each. Unfortunately there's not enough room around the spillway for everybody to collect their 100 litres so they don't do it very often.

Ooops, there goes my hundred litres

Proof readers note: Well that was very informative Steve, any chance you are going to get on with the story now.

As I mentioned previously, the town of Kununurra itself is not all that exciting but there's plenty of things to see in the area. Thanks to the aforementioned dam and the supporting irrigation channels there are plenty of farms and crops on show. 

Surprisingly the main crop is Sandalwood. I say surprisingly because up until we visited Margaret River in February I didn't know what Sandalwood was or what it is used for. Obviously we all now know that it is a key ingredient in the perfume and soap business. The bad news is it takes 15 years for the Sandalwood to mature to an oil producing level. The good news is the trees in Kununurra were planted 13 years ago, so they are starting to get a bit excited.

Editors note: For those of you saying “Hang on Steve, I heard it takes 35 years for a Sandalwood tree to mature.” I say: “You are thinking of the AUSTRALIAN sandalwood tree. The INDIAN sandalwood, as grown in Margaret River and Kununurra only takes 15 years.” But well done you, good get.
This is NOT a Sandalwood tree
It's a Boab
It takes longer than 15 years to mature

Kununurra is also famous for Zebra Rock. In fact it is the only place in the world where it can be found. Zebra Rock is so named because it is always found in horse shaped blocks and lions love to eat them.

OK, you caught me out again, Zebra Rock is so named because it's stripy. A number of galleries in the area do carvings out of the rock and sell them off to tourists, with jobs. They did have some very attractive pieces including some lovely wine racks and a truly spectacular carved eagle. The eagle would have been really nice to pick up as the sight of the eagles soaring over the road over the Kimberley has been one of our best memories. Never mind, maybe next trip.
This is not Zebra rock (they don't let you take photo's in the galllery)
This is a bougainvillea plant outside the gallery


This is a catfish feeding frenzy.
These fish are exceptionally ugly.
According to a German chef I met once, the uglier the fish, the tastier it is
I think catfish might be the exception to the rule

The weather has also picked up since we arrived here and we are regularly getting highs of over 30, for the first time since Perth, or even before. The nights and mornings are also less cool, so Melbournians can feel a little better for us at last.

On one of our day trips we visited the Ivanhoe Crossing, where the road forms a weir over the river. This time last year Herb drove across it in the new Toerag Toureg. Today the water is flowing across it 3 feet deep and at 80 km/h. Even Herb would not have tackled it!
Somewhere under there is the road Herb drove on
Ask him to show you the video

Even though we are on holiday, from our holiday, this week we did spend one day cleaning and reorganising MM. Right, this time I think we have it sorted. Much less stuff to move from end to end every time we have to go out for the day.

Given we are on holiday this week, we also managed to reinvigorate our social life. As well as a couple of evening catch ups with our new besties from Adelaide we also spent some time with our new neighbours, two couples from Sunbury, travelling in two Maui vans. Newer MMs.

I know what you are thinking, “Steve, Western suburbs people, really?”

Proof readers note: “No, I think they are thinking, Sunbury? Vicki and Herb lived in Sunbury, I wonder if these people know them?”
Oh right. Well funny you mention that because one of the guys is a high school teacher. Lo and behold, he did remember Richard. Well we think he did, but he did remember him as a “good kid” so I'm not entirely sure.

Proof readers note: Of course that was Richard!

He didn't remember Marita but that's because she went to a private school. Most of us did :-)

In a sign of relative civilisation we have phone and internet reception here for the week so we even managed to watch the Dutch Moto GP and the European Formula One GP. Although we did miss the start of the Formula One. We missed the first 37 of 70 laps actually. Turns out the European GP is held on European time, not UK time (surprisingly).

In a sign that we are not completely in civilisation, Northern Territory packaged iced coffee is no good.

In an attempt to civilise me, Di took me to an art gallery in town. Run by a lady, originally from Sydney, who has been living in and painting the Kimberley for twenty years or more. Her most famous work still hangs in the gallery, a 14 meter long, 2 metre high painting of the Bungle Bungles. She has been struggling to find someone with a lounge room wall long enough to hang it so no one has bought it.
This is a mini bungle
It is just outside of the town

Speaking of the Bungle Bungles, the highlight of the week was to be the flight over them and Lake Argyle in a light plane. I must admit the first hour was truly sensational. 

That's our pilot on the left. I think he was about 14
Di says 21
Lake Argyle from the air.
The lake is that big it is classified as an inland sea. Honestly

Some of the bungles

Shortly after this photo was taken I stopped taking photo's
and concentrated on the horizon
and keeping my breakfast down

Unfortunately after the 20 minute loop circling the Bungle Bungles I began to fell less than comfortable. Rumour has it that I did actually turn green! I am blaming Lee from Sunbury who just before we left for the flight told me the story of how he and his nephew were ill on the same flight. The power of suggestion!
The green tinge in this photo is the reflection from my face


Not to worry, the bits I saw were well worth the temporary discomfort.
Proof readers note: Not that temporary, you spent the whole afternoon in bed. Cuddling your bucket.

Editors note: Probably just as well I failed the eye test on my application to join the airforce as a pilot. Could have been a bit embarassing “Sorry lads we are going to have abort this bombing run, the pilot is feeling a bit air-sick”. Tom Cruise was Maverick, Val Kilmer was Iceman. I could have been Sicky La la



The Argyle diamond mine
One of the largest producers of diamonds in the world
Di had to take this photo
No bible quote in this latest update but this week a quote from the back of a Wicked Campervan

Lead me not into temptation

I can find my own way 

Well that's another week gone then. Heading off to Lake Argyle tomorrow for a couple of nights. Lots of people are coming in from the other direction and they are all saying it's well worth a stop, so we will give it a try.



Almost forgot. Pop quiz. How many people knew that in the 1800's there was a plan to create a superstate in the North, called Albert. It was to be formed from parts of WA and Queensland. Eventually they created the Northern Territory instead

Here's a proposed map to show I didn't make that up I seem to have a credibility problem lately.

ps It was to be named Albert, after Queen Victoria's husband. Not Namatjira the aboriginal artist.

Step 79 Mary's Pool – Dunham River 393 km's

Wednesday 22nd June TED
First lesson for today: do NOT empty the toilet at a free camp that has 70 vans in it each night. I don't think I need to go into details do I?

Heavily traumatised we hit the road by 9:05 and make it into Halls Creek mid morning. Not one of the highlights of the Kimberley but we did duck into the IGA to grab a couple of bits and pieces.

We also seem to have stumbled on a convention of SIPA, otherwise known as “stupid, inconsiderate, pillocks anonymous”. Now that I think of it maybe the A doesn't stand for anonymous but lets go with that in this family oriented forum. 
Exhibit A: 4WD towing a van stopped in the middle of the highway while he decided whether he was going to turn into the petrol station or not. 
Exhibit B: excelled himself and upheld all the great traditions of SIPA. He had pulled up for petrol at the two bowser local petrol station and decided he needed jack up his van to check on something. So he did, all the while blocking one half of the driveway and bowsers. The guy at the petrol station was loathe to say anything to him on the basis that if he was that stupid he may also be unstable. 

Lesson 2 for the day: Humans maybe at the top of the food chain but it doesn't make them intelligent.

OK, deep breaths Stephen. Move on. So we did. Move on that is.

Normality was resumed when we pulled over at a roadside stop for an iced coffee and piece of Jean Leary fruit cake. Aaah, better than valium, possibly more addictive though.

Our plan for tonight was to amble into one of two free camps about 100 kilometres north of Halls Creek making it a very easy day's travelling. Unfortunately neither of them really appealed.

The first was in a nice setting and we had a walk down to the Ord River and had a look around. Unfortunately the layout wasn't all that flash and we couldn't find a good spot to set up for the night.
In the wet season, you can't see this weir

I wasn't kidding about the water in the wet season
Look closely and you can see a log that is stuck in a branch
at the top of the big tree in the foreground

The second camp site was also quite large and a reasonable setting but again no good spots to set-up. These free campers stop travelling very early in the day. We were at both of these camps between 12:00 & 1:00.

Editors note: Di heard a story the other day from a woman who had met a couple with a car and caravan who were only travelling 50 kilometers per day. We have heard of people on push bikes doing more k's in a day! That's going to take a long time to even get out of WA, let alone all the way round

Anyway, after sandwich lunch in MM it was back on the road and off towards Doon Doon Roadhouse. Given our budget conscious mood we ended up driving on past the Roadhouse (even though it looked very nice) and ended up at a free camp 20kilometres up the road.

Third time lucky. A really nice area, well setup, it even has gravel areas laid out for each van. All for the extremely reasonable price of – nothing. Amazing

So, quite a few extra kilometres driven today than we had planned, over some of the worst roads we have had since NSW, but through some really beautiful Kimberley countryside.




After eating tea inside tonight, because of a bit of insect activity, I did make Di come outside with me to check out the stars, to avoid any repeats of last night's incident.
Even managed an episode of NCIS LA. I don't think Di is as committed to this one as the original though.

Step 78 Fitzroy Crossing – Mary's Pool, Mary River 180km's


Tuesday 21st June
The ear plugs failed me this morning and I was woken up early by a phone call from the East coast. But on the other hand it was good to catch up on a bit of goss from home.

Even though we were up early it is still 10:00 by the time we get out on the road. But the road is certainly worth it today, we are definitely travelling through classic Kimberley country. All reds, greens and yellows, hills and plains. It really is a beautiful part of the country.

Retracing the steps of the Hertaegs in the Travels with the Taj Tour we stopped at the Ngumban Cliffs for morning tea. True to Vicki's description it is extremely windy but the view is more than worth it.
In an attempt to get the budget at least a little bit back on track we are stopping at a free camp tonight at Mary's Pool. 

But it is also a recommendation by our travel advisors and it doesn't disappoint. Yet again a completely free camp turns out to have a beautiful setting and wonderful outlook. Mind you these places are extremely popular and when we arrive at 12:30 there is already a crowd settled in. By the time it gets dark there must have been 70 vans, tents and campers in here.

It's a different crowd in these places too, although the couple that started wine o'clock at 1:00pm are different even for a free camp.

Making the most of the early stop we wandered down to the river and pool and took in the view. No crocs here today though.
On our walk we are also passed by a lot of people dragging a LOT of wood back their individual sites. Think it's going to be a lively night in camp tonight.

In another first for the trip the afternoon serenity is interrupted by a lone piper on the river. Nope, not a bird piper a man with a set of bagpipes.
No kilt ladies - sorry

Again it's dark by 5:30, well it would be if it wasn't for the glow(s) of 20 campfires.

Given the early darkness we ended up heading off to bed early tonight so it was with quite a start that I awoke half an hour after I had disappeared into a deep sleep with Di shaking on my arm saying “are you awake?”. After responding, politely, with “well I am now” she pointed out the window at the biggest brightest sky I think we have seen on the trip so far. Well I suppose it was worth the interruption.



Step 77 Derby – Fitzroy Crossing 264 km's



Sunday 19th June

Bidding Derby a very fond farewell we headed off to Fitzroy Crossing this morning.

Before leaving the “city limits” though we had a quick stop at the prison boab tree. These boab trees are absolutely amazing. They reckon the prison tree is 1500 years old. Yep one thousand five hundred years old. That's older than Rube would have been even.  

 The prison tree, again the naming committee taking the easy option. The tree was hollowed out many years ago and used to contain.....
yep prisoners.

 Bullocks. 
No, “bullocks”. 
Up to 500 could drink at this trough at the same time. 
Possibly the longest in the southern hemisphere.



Out on the open road we cross the Hardman River, but it's dried up. Maybe it should be renamed the Bounty River.
Proof readers note: get over it Steve. It was called a speculative share because the outcome was speculative!

Just after lunch we arrived at the Fitzroy Crossing Lodge and Caravan Park and quite the oasis it is in the middle of the Kimberley. An enormous block of land with the Lodge and up market accommodation at the front and caravan park to the back. 


It turns out the army is in town too.





It also appears Tony & Jo from Adelaide are also in town so naturally we headed straight over for wine o'clock. Even popped up to the lodge for a quick drink in the bar. Tony and Jo are taking advantage of having the 4WD and are heading into the Bungle Bungles tomorrow. As motor-homers we will be taking the softer option and doing the Geiki Gorge boat trip.

Another new adventure for Di tonight as we watch the first couple of episodes of NCIS LA. It will grow on her.
Monday 20th June
There's an 8:00 o'clock tour at the gorge this morning. Obviously we didn't go on that, mainly due to the fact that we didn't get up until 8:30. Still loving the ear plugs. Was a little disappointed to discover the army boys (and girls) went out for their run at 6:00am so I've missed out on joining in.

As planned we headed off for the 11:00am cruise, stopping for a muffin and iced coffee in the park of course.

Inside the shed there are markings for the various flood levels.
In March this year the water was half a metre ABOVE the roof.
In 1992 it was TWO METRES above the roof.
 

The tour, as recommended by (the senior) Kendalls and Hertaegs was fantastic and great value at $28 per head. Loads of crocs to be seen on the banks and rocks as we drifted along, sensational rock formations and loads of bird life. I was so excited I managed to take a hundred photo's (actually 101) in the one hour we were on the boat. The crocs were all freshies, as we call them here in the North West. That's freshwater crocodiles to you city folk, or Crocodylus Johnstoni to the more academic.
Proof readers note: For once that really is the Latin name, he didn't make it up.



Like Reef sharks, freshwater crocs are mostly harmless
Like Reef Sharks, I don't believe them 



Elton would be thrilled - Crocodile Rock

OK, this time I am fully in agreement with the naming committee
Richard Nixon Rock

Refer comments above about freshwater crocs
You will not find me paddling in their front garden


 Falling for the old “it looks good in the brochure” trick again we stopped off at the old crossing pub on the way back to camp. Definitely falls into the overselling category of brochures. We did NOT stop for a drink and I did not take a picture.

The town is really just an IGA supermarket and a petrol station. But as our contribution to the government economic stimulus program we topped up on supplies at the supermarket and diesel at the petrol station.