Step 73 Peawah River – Cape Kedauren 260km's

Tuesday 7^th June

Well there was bit more rain over night but we are nice and cosy in MM.

So, these free camps are a bit different to caravan parks. By 8:30 the place has emptied out and everybody is back on the road. Well apart from us, and surprisingly a couple who arrived by 8:00am. Which leads me to wonder:

• Did they travel through the night and are sleeping during the day? Members of Team Edward

          (That's a gratuitous Twilight reference. Edward is a vampire).

• Did they get up early and only travel 50km's for the day?
• Should I get out more and stop asking questions like this?

Back on the road ourselves and we are noticing many more four trailer road trains. Luckily the ones we are seeing are heading the other way. Mind you MM certainly notices it as they go past. The draft they create as they hurtle by certainly shakes you around.

Drove in to Port Hedland for a look around, probably could have saved time there. It's not that attractive.

That's a long boat - needed panorama shot to fit it in

However while filling up with petrol Di noticed the guy at the next pump was wearing an “Elke” tee shirt. Initially we thought the t-shirt might have been promoting “The Other Way is Liverpool” but it turns out that El*ke is a German Punk Band. Anyway it gave Di the opportunity to talk to a young german backpacker :-) Probably should have taken a photo, maybe by the end of this trip we will have got the hang of this tourist game.

"Mum, this seagull hat makes me look stupid"

They reckon everything is bigger in Texas
But in the Kimberley this is two pinches of salt

 A bit further up the road and we pass a sign

            Danger Blasting

            The next blast will be

To which some wit had added – In my pants

It's a long road – people get bored. What can I say.

We are reminded today that this would be a very different trip in the wet season. There have been lots of bridges today over dry river beds as well as frequent flood markers. Think we are doing this trip at the right time.

At this point I must officially apologise to Mighty Merc because the 10 kilometres of gravel road into Point Kedauren is officially “atrocious”. That's even after we waited for the grader to do it's work. Corrugations would be the word of the day. At the end of the road though is a very pleasant camp site right on the beach. $13 per night for the camping but an additional $10 for the park entry. Even so for our one night stay it's still under budget. Our decision to stay one night is confirmed when we discover at the ranger station that:

• If the wind drops the sand flies will return
• Estuarine crocodiles share the mangroves with the sand flies.
  • The ranger says the crocs have moved North for the summer but Di is not keen to test the theory

True beach front site with ocean views though and we had a pleasant stroll along the beach after setting up.

At the end of the beach the remnants of a rabbit proof fence
Not as impressive as the Great Wall of China
Which the Emperor Nasi Goreng built in the 12th century
"To keep the rabbits out"

A very short rain shower during wine o'clock but all clear by dinner time as we sit back with our chili prawns and stir fry. Our dinner cooked inside on the gas stove unlike the group across from us who cooked on an open fire. On the other hand we got to eat all ours whereas they had to throw out the half of their dinner that they burned.

After dinner we got invited to our first night time campfire (not the burned dinner camp fire). Kumbaya. The couple next door are from Adelaide, on a 3 month long service trip and I think Tony might be a closet pyromaniac. Nonetheless it was very pleasant sitting outside around the fire watching the stars. Apart from his fire building skills Tony s also an enthusiastic fishermen. Given he caught a small shark out the front of the vans this afternoon I don't think we will be swimming in the morning before leaving.

Step 72 Dampier to Peawah River via Karratha 220 km's

Monday 6^th June

What is going on here. It's been raining through the night and it's still drizzling when we wake up. Granted we are still in shorts because it's not cold, so we are still somewhat better off than we would be if we were in Melbourne for the winter. Or England for the summer ;-)

The European backpackers in tent city are probably not feeling so sanguine about it all though. It looks pretty damp over there.

Proof readers note: just say happy. Sanguine? really?

The plan today is to have a drive around Karratha and check out the scenes of some of Mr & Mrs King's best early work. Although to be fair Mr Kings work in boating with the Great White Sharks in Albany is going to take some beating. (See Albany entry – Step 51)

Did a quick circuit of Karratha, visiting the old King residence and Lee's old school. That's the school where her teaching career started, not where she went to school. Where she went to school is still sealed off as an archeological dig. (Just kidding Lee xxx).

Proof readers note: Stupid jibe Stephen, Lee is younger than you.

 

Like all of us oldies, bits are drooping or dropping right off

On the way out of Dampier we managed to fill up with some of the cheapest diesel we have seen for a long time at $1.63.9. If we had a Coles discount voucher we could have even got 4 cents a litre off. It's almost like being in civilisation.

Dropped in at Karratha Centro for a spot of retail therapy. OMG this is civilisation, there is a K Mart AND a Target. Lashed out and bought a couple of new chairs, because:

• my fix it skills are nowhere near as good as Herbies and our original chairs are officially dead.
• And the chairs were on special for $7.00 each

Given we could never resist a bargain we also picked up a non-stick frypan/wok for $8. To celebrate we lashed out on two cappuccinos (for $8, there goes the savings). Never mind, the coffee was good.

 

We did stop in at Point Sampson with the thought of possibly staying there but despite both caravan parks looking very nice we decided to push on to a free camp a bit up the road. May as well save some money where we can. We are beginning to think that Broome may be a little expensive.

While we were there we decided it must be time for afternoon tea so we took in the view.

These boats were too big for trailers

 

Back on the main road and we are starting to see a lot more cattle, including some Brahman bulls/cows.

Editors note: This reminds me of one of the times I was in Beijing

Proof readers note: Oooooh look at you, Mr. “I used to be an international jetsetter”. Is this story relevant?

Editors note: If I may continue. I was at this BBQ restaurant, in Beijing, where they bring you slices of meat from the spit. As each course came out my Chinese host would translate for me:

“Steve, this is Rump”;

“Steve, this is Rib”;

“Steve, this front leg”;

“Steve, this is the hump”;

Hang on, hold the phone. Hump? What is this a camel?

Oh, I get it. Brahman bull/cow (see that was the link). Phew that's a relief, although not very tasty to be honest.

“ OK Steve, this is the last course. This is the cow's boy bits”

Excuse me?

Ever the quick thinker - “Oh, thank you Ji, but I am absolutely full. I don't think I could eat another morsel. What a shame, I've missed the best bit.”.

Back in Australia – we pulled into the Peawah River, free campsite. Yep absolutely free. Predictably , given the price and the fact that we are a little late, it's quite full. But we managed to slip in next to the caravans and settle in for the night.

Facilities outside are basic but we are self contained in MM and settle in for an omelette for dinner, plug in the inverter and snuggle up on the couch/dining suite/bed to watch NCIS.

“Livin the dream baby.”

Step 71 Onslow – Dampier 318 km's

Sunday 5^th June TED

Overcast again this morning but while we slept someone has been out fishing. Well crabbing to be precise. A flurry of activity at the cleaning table as they sort out their catch of the day.

The guy setting up next to us this morning has been living in Karratha for a few years, in his van. Apparently the big money they earn on the mines is somewhat whittled away by the cost of living up there. He has been paying $400 per week for a powered site at the caravan park and that's the long term rate, with a $1600 bond. Property prices and house rentals are astronomical. Mean house price in Karratha is apparently more than in Sydney. 

The lady in the office at our park suggests we head for the Dampier transit caravan park if we are only staying for a night or two, the Big 4 at Karratha charges at least $55 per night.

So it's on the road again, after a quick stop at the public toilet dump facility. For those of you interested, Western Australia seems better set-up for motor homes and has many more toilet dump sites than other states. Come on, secretly, you were interested weren't you?

Slight drizzle as we set off and then it turns into rain as we head down the main road. But at least that seems to have got rid of the locusts for a while.

The road is certainly outback up here and red. Even the road kill has changed, today we saw a dead cow beside the road. Reminds me of the Top Gear episode where they were on a trip and only allowed to eat road kill. Jeremy drove in to camp with a cow strapped to the roof of his Mustang. Di didn't seem keen to re-enact this, so we just kept driving.

After morning tea stop (iced coffee and muffin) Di took over driving for a while, which was unfortunate because we saw another dead cow and she wouldn't stop.

It's much greener now (although still red underneath) 

and even some of the wild flowers are blooming red, yellow and purple.

For the non-botanists amongst you this is a Sturt Desert Pea

As we get closer to Karratha there is a lot of activity. Lots of mine vehicles, new gas plants being built, road works and plenty of evidence of the mining boom up this way.

Following our advice from Onslow (well the lady at the town of Onslow, not Onslow Hyacinth's brother-in-law) we checked in at the Dampier Transit Caravan Park. Now technically it's prime waterfront accommodation but given it's a major mining shipping port it's not as attractive as it might be. Mind you at $24 per night it's better value than the Big 4 charging $55.

Dirty cockie
Even they can't resist the money of working in the mines

As you will have noticed from the heading, it's Sunday. So Dampier is shut. Apart from the pub which appears to have every mine vehicle that's not actually working parked in the car park. Tempting as it seems we did not venture in to the bar. Although the sign advertising “skimpy barmaids this week” nearly tipped us over.

Proof readers note: well it nearly tipped Steve over

I'm not saying that this place is a little old fashioned
but even the photo came out in black and white

Sam's Island

 Had a quick walk and read up on a few local brochures and settled in for the night.

Apart from the history of the town the local brochures featured two main stories:

1: Sam's Island. A tiny island in the shipping channel that a local Hungarian guy settled on and built his own little castle.

Editors note: I realise that strictly speaking you can not be a “local” Hungarian in Dampier Mr./Ms smarty pants. This guy was born in Hungary and settled in this area in his 20's. In his 40's he took up squatting rights on the island and Rio Tinto eventually signed a “gentleman's lease” with him, allowing him to stay on the island. He became quite a local celebrity and ended up passing away on the island where he is now buried. By the way his name was Sam. That's how they cleverly came up with the name Sam's Island.

 2: The other story which crops up in all the brochures, appears on the Information Board on the way in to town and even includes a statue: concerns Red Dog. Now I would enlighten you on the details of the story but none of the aforementioned sources actually provided any information. So apparently the famous Red Dog, was …...

a red dog that lived in the area.

We may all be more enlightened later in the year because apparently someone has made a film about Red Dog. We all wait with bated breath.

 A nice finish to the day with the rest of the spangly for dinner, with greek salad this time. We also managed to have a chat to Jean Leary on the phone and get Steve's weekly update on dancing with the stars. Devastated to hear that Luda has gone ( a personal favourite). Not quite sure who Dan the celebrity was but Luda, 5 times world salsa champion, darn... :-(

This is William Dampier.
He found Australia quite some time before Captain Cook
But he was deemed too unattractive to be credited with
discovering a country.
Eventually they named the town after him though.

Step 70 Exmouth – Onslow 429km's

Friday 3^rd June – Saturday 4^th June

Bit of a late start this morning, despite having no breakfast. (Slight mistake on counting the bread slices and the yoghurts). But we did have a lovely chat to our next door neighbours before leaving the Park.

Quick stop in Exmouth town for breakfast, at last. A toastie at the bakery then a bit of  a top up shop at the supermarket. Next stop Kalis fish wholesalers where we topped up on Spanglies and prawns. That should keep us going for a few days. Who needs a fishing rod, this is the way to catch fish.

Out on the main road and for some reason there seems to be a lot of vans heading South. This is very unseasonal, people should be heading North at this time of the year. The world's gone mad.

There's also a lot of motorcycles heading South. Looks like there must have been some sort of rally because we must have passed fifty bikes, in groups of 5 to 10. Makes us a bit sad, having left the bike behind in Tweed.

Aaah, the open road

Not much work for the navigator - may as well relax

 Twenty kilometres up the road and we hit our first swarm of locusts for the day. Well that's cured us of the pining for the bike. The thought of picking locust out of our teeth for a hundred kilometres is less than appealing.

The locusts were something to behold, these things were the size of small birds, and thousands of them. When they hit the metal parts of the van they made a “bong” like hitting a metal drum with a hammer.

Editors note: Well that's the sound I imagine a hammer hitting a metal drum would be like. You know I don't use tools or do manual labour. I keep telling you, I'm a software person. NOT hardware.

We ended up going through about half a dozen swarms during the course of the day.

Stopped for a sandwich at an overnight park by the Yannarie River. Tried to talk Di into deep fried locusts but she declined.

Editors note: Surprisingly Elke HAS eaten deep fried locusts. On one of her trips to China. I say surprisingly because we struggled to get her to eat broccoli when she was younger.

Yannarie River - lunch stop.
Did I mention it's very red up here?

It's been quite the David Attenborough day today, because as well as the locusts we have also seen loads of hawks hovering over the road as well as loads of termite mounds. I must admit I was a little perturbed when we saw the first hawk hovering because I thought it might have been the biggest locust anyone had ever seen. Quite a relief really.

Might I just mention these are not the only hawks that are soaring at the moment. C'mon you mighty Hawks.

Didn't manage to get a photo of the hawks - but this is a hill.
It was bigger and wasn't moving so it was a bit easier to capture

 As we approach Onslow I begin to wonder whether it has changed from David Attenborough day, to Biblical day (Old Testament). Having already survived the plague of locusts we are now faced with the parting of the red sea. Again, I may be being a little melodramatic there. But the road did have the water on both sides of the road and it did look a little red.

Exodus 14:21
And Moses stretched out his hand over the sea; and the Lord caused the sea to go back by a strong east wind all that night, and made the sea dry land, and the waters were divided.

In this case I think it was actually the WA roads department.

 As we enter the town of Onslow two things go through my mind:

1: Who recommended coming to Onslow?

2: Maybe this town was named after Onslow in the TV show Keeping Up Appearances. 

Editors note: Keeping Up Appearances – UK TV Show 1990 – 1995;

The main character Mrs. Hyacinth Bucket (pronounced bouquet) has a brother-in-law (Onslow) who is a less than attractive man. The town is less than attractive.

Interestingly (well I think it's interesting) the actress who plays Hyacinth is Patricia Routledge and she went to Liverpool University. I like to think Patricia played hockey for LUHC. Up until Elke and the rest of the cast of “The Other Way is Liverpool” appeared on the scene Patricia was the most famous alumni of Liverpool University. Although now that I think about it maybe there was some other guy who won a Nobel prize or something

Editors note note: Actually according to Wikipedia there are nine Nobel Laureates and one Poet laureate who attended Liverpool University. Plus, Professor Sid Watkins the former chief medical officer for Formula One. 

But none of them could go into the local kebab shop and say “the usual please” and get their order. Elke's friends can.

In the immortal words of Onslow: “Awww....nice”

However, the caravan park at Onslow and the lady that runs it are loverly. Ocean View by name and ocean views it is. Well from our site, and that's all that matters.

Apparently the locusts have been through here too. Twice last week.

Discovery for today: Locusts don't like gum leaves. Well they don't eat them anyway. Maybe they heard the gum leaves were making the Koalas infertile.

Last week this tree had leaves.

This one too

 In the evening we managed to Skype El, quickly, she was on her way to the pub. The exams are finished! Her time at Liverpool is nearly at an end. Liverpool survived a blitz and the Beatles hopefully it will recover from Elke. The big question is will The Other Way is Liverpool survive without her. It's up to you (in alphabetical order): Bronagh, Chris, Danielle, Dee, Haydn, Kate, Lou, Ollie, Rosie & Simon. Do us proud.

Later that night I have a quick flashback to English TV. With our TV program finishing there comes the unmistakable sound of Big Ben. Bong, bong, bong.

Wait that's not Big Ben it's. . . . . . . . . 

OH, locusts bashing into the side of the van.

Saturday: it's housekeeping time. Di is off washing and Steve is hard at work on the blog.

Morning tea is a little emotional this morning as we finish the last of V&H's sultana cake. It would have been a lot more emotional if we didn't still have a Jean Leary fruit cake.

A quick walk along the beach front and around town doesn't take long. Unfortunately the beach is not that good to walk on and the town is not that big. Or inviting. The lady at the caravan park may be lovely but all the windows on the shops have metal grilles on them so some of the locals must get a bit boisterous.

View from MM

I was a little worried this afternoon when we discovered that the camp BBQ that is on tonight is also doubling as a Tupperware party. Fortunately Di seems to have recovered from her Tupperware addiction and we stayed in instead (need I remind any of you of the fact that at one stage in our married life we had tupperware containers for our tupperware so you can understand my trepidation).

So instead of sausages and tupperware it's spangly for tea tonight and very yummo it was too. Those Kalis boys at Exmouth certainly make a good fish (well catch a good fish then). The fish tonight is accompanied by a Popeye and Olive Oil salad. It was meant to be greek salad but one of us read the label wrong. I am now taking credit for making the mistake because the salad was very nice.

Sunset and low tide at Onslow

So we are still not sure if Onslow is worth the 85km trip off the main road (and back 85km's again). I'm guessing if you are a fisherman there's probably more to make it worthwhile. Although I think you probably need a boat of some kind. But it's nice and relaxing. Great with the ocean view from MM and the lady at the caravan park is a gracious hostess. Let us remember Onslow as " a quaint little secluded fishing village".

Step 69 Coral Bay – Exmouth 205 km's

Step 69 Coral Bay – Exmouth 205 km's

Two omissions from the previous Coral Bay update:

1: You don't need a big boat, but boy do lot's of people have them.

That's a Mitsubishi Pajero not a Mini
That's a BIG boat

2: Telstra and Channel 10 came through for us on Sunday night. We managed to watch the Monaco Grand Prix on the laptop. Would have been even better if Jenson Button had won, as it looked like he would for awhile.

Wednesday 1^st June TED

A sad sad day. We packed up this morning and left Coral Bay. We WILL be back.

A bit of pottering around, picking up a couple of bits and pieces from the supermarket, maintenance check on MM, pick up more free food from our fisherpeople friends next door. This time a dozen eggs. To be honest I would have preferred another couple of kilo's of Spanish Mackerel but a food parcel is a food parcel. I'm sure my nans didn't complain about the contents of food parcels during the war.

As we were leaving we saw a Wicked Campervan parked on the side of the road. Now all Wicked campervans have a “saying” painted on the back of the van. Most are not suitable for posting, on this family oriented blog. But it appears Vicki may have been moonlighting as a signwriter because this one read:

              The average woman would rather have beauty than brains

              Because the average man can see better than he can think

Wise words indeed.

Not far to drive today, but it turns out to be spectacular scenery along the way. We're in the Pilbara now and as I said earlier it's starting to get quite red. We've also hit a couple of groups of flying insects. They are the size of small birds! Pretty sure they are locusts but I'm glad we are not on the motorbike.

We are also getting into gorge country. I am trying really hard not to say “and it's gorge ous” but really it's probably best if I just get it out of the way right up front and we can move on. It's gorge ous.

Anyway, just before Exmouth there is a turnoff to the Charles Knife Gorge.

Editors note: Although the Earl of Sandwich invented the Sandwich I am fairly sure Charles Knife did NOT invent the knife. Wikipedia, neither confirmed nor refuted that.

Back on the road, or rather off it in this case, as the road quickly turned to rather rough gravel. Mind you the views were well worth it, I'll say it again, this country is truly amazing.

Back to the main road

Oops, too far. Should have turned left back at that last intersection.
Is that pebbles? What, are we back on Brighton Beach UK

MM is in amongst those trees somewhere

V & H have told us that there are some really nice (cheap) camping spots in the Cape Range National Park just the other side of Exmouth. They have also told us that there is no booking so people get to the Nat Park gate before 6:00am to try and get a spot. Since we have not seen 6:00 am since we left Melbourne it is unlikely that we will get a spot in the National Park so we have booked into the Lighthouse Caravan Park instead. A better recommendation from V & H than their National Park one.

So that's how they got the name for the Caravan Park

 A quick haircut for Steve and then where has the day gone? It's wine o'clock already, followed by a quick walk across the road to the beach for a bit of sunset gazing. From the beach you can see the oil rigs on the horizon, with the flame of the overburn glowing in the fading light. In the fading light you can also see a tear roll slowly down Steve's cheek as he sits and thinks: “If only that was a Bounty Oil rig, off the coast off Newcastle NSW. Pumping out millions of barrels of oil and natural gas and pushing the share price above the 3 cents it currently sits at."

 Editors note: Steve has two plans for funding his retirement.

1: Win First Division Tattslotto

2: Bounty Oil shares hit $2.00 and continue to climb while paying a dividend.

Option 1 is looking more likely since Bounty drilled a hole in the middle of a gas field the size of Tasmania. And missed the oil and gas.

Thursday 2^nd June

A big day planned today exploring the National Park. Well not that big, a bit of snorkelling and a bit of gorging (not gorging ourselves on food, taking in the gorge ous gorge views).

Proof readers note: Sorry about that, he just can't help himself.

First stop Turquoise Bay. Oh stop it, this is getting ridiculous, everywhere up here is just stunning.

 Again the reef is just off shore and again no strenuous swimming required, the current just drags you along to take in the view. Although to be honest the current is bordering on a little strong, we are moving along quite fast. But then again not as fast as we moved when Di pointed out the SHARK swimming 3 metres below us. SHARK!

Let me fill in the details:

Drifting along happily,

oh look that coral looks different to Coral Bay,

mmm isn't that little fish pretty,

wow is that another small Manta Ray,

tap tap point from Di,

double take from Steve

lift heads out of water

Di: “what was that big fish?”

Steve: “it was a reef SHARK”

Di “that's what I thought! Get me the hell out of here”

Steve: “ok, if you insist, but according to the sign we saw they are harmless”

             to be honest, by the time I said that I was already half  way to the beach.

NOTE: the sign, and Herb, said that Reef Sharks are “relatively harmless”. What I want to see in a message like that is that they are “COMPLETELY harmless”

Now based on our new motto: “Never swim with anything bigger than you can eat in one sitting” we probably could have stayed in the water. (Once he was filleted and cut up into flake sized pieces, I think we could have managed to finish him off in one go. Not too many chips with that though).

So I am making an addition to the motto: “Never swim with anything that can eat YOU in one sitting”. Given our friend was about the same size as me (I kid you not) we gave him the benefit of the doubt and decided the risk of skin cancer laying on the beach was a much safer option.

Relatively harmless. I don't think so

 Once we got the heart rates down below 200bpm each we headed off to the next stop for the day, Yardie Creek. Time to don the hiking gear and head off in to the wilderness. Now I am starting to feel like Steve Irwin. Crikey. To be honest it's only about a kilometre walk, it's steep in places though.

Again, the views make it all worthwhile.

I'm staying up here on the cliff
the way our luck is running today
there are probably croc's in the creek

Either they overdid it when they were banging in the posts
or it gets quite windy around here

Are you looking at me?
Are you looking at me?
(even emus do that famous De Niro impersonation)

 After the walk, and given it's quite warm we are already re-thinking our vow never to swim at Turquoise Bay again. After all it was only one shark, and being as tall as Steve really means it was only a metre and half long. Let's give it a try.

All going well as we put on our flippers and goggles and then two young (pre-teenage) kids drift by and say hello. “Wow, it's great out there, we saw sharks.”

What do you mean sharkS, that's more than one SHARK.

“How far out were they?” we ask bravely.

“Oh, quite a long way actually.”

“Excellent, we'll see if we can see them then” - or maybe not.

A very quick snorkel in the shallows and it's back to the beach for us.

It's still a SHARK

But despite all the excitement/fear it's been a brilliant day. Next stop the Lighthouse lookout to watch the sunset. Yep, another V & H recommendation.

Oh look two men in a bathtub, suspended below a kite, powered by a lawnmower engine
and they charge you for this?
Sunset tours in a microlight.

 Quite a crowd up there, but we found ourselves a nice little spot for MM and propped ourselves up in the reading room (driver and passenger seats) with a couple of drinks and a cheese platter. As the sun sets into the ocean and the dolphins frolick in the waves we think to ourselves: “It's a tough life.” But we are prepared to put in the hard yards just so you can all enjoy this blog.

Once the sun goes down the view isn't quite as good

 Back at the camp site we have a chat to the couple next door who went out fishing this morning, not far from Turquoise Bay. While impressed with our story of swimming with the Reef Shark, they kind of trump us with their story of seeing a Hammerhead Shark bigger than their tinny swim by. 

Translation for UK readers: tinny = small metal boat. Hammerhead shark = a not at all harmless shark Now if that had swum by us there would have been some serious walk/run on water action.

Definitely time to move on tomorrow. No swimming for awhile.